24. Rottnest Island

A 45 minute trip by fast ferry from Hillarys Boat Harbour is Rottnest Island. As the forecast was for clear skies and a temperature of 22C, we decided to make the most of the favourable weather.

That said, the crossing could, at best, be described as "sporting". Still. We made it in one piece and had a day to explore.

The Island has a chequered history. During the late 1800's it was used as a penal colony for Aboriginal dissenters who were held under absolutely appalling conditions. Thankfully the error of the old colonial ways passed and as the storm clouds began to gather with the approach of WW2, its strategic importance came to the fore as it provides an imposing position guarding the approach to Fremantle harbour. (Fremantle was second only to Pearl Harbour in terms of a naval and submarine base at the time.) Nowadays the Island is a nature reserve and eco-holiday destination with self-catering lets and there are no cars other than a few service vehicles. To get around, there is a veteran train service that goes to the old gun fortifications, a round island bus service (which takes about an hour), bicycles, or good old shanks pony.

Rottnests most famous inhabitant is the quokka...half rat, half miniature kangaroo and altogether a little bundle of cuteness. This marsupial is only found in one other place in Australia and at one time had been hunted almost to extinction as they are extremely inquisitive, friendly and show no fear. No sooner had we walked up the jetty  than we spotted one....and then another....and another. They were everywhere!

We caught the train up to the gun encampment and being at almost the highest point on the island, gave a good all round view. A knowledgeable guide took us around the bunkers, underground storerooms and gave a detailed oral history of the fortifications and the guns themselves before we took the return journey back to the main port.

We made it just in time to catch one of the round island busses but only had time to get off at the most westerly point. Here, fur seals were supposed to be visible but obviously they were all out fishing when we were there. Instead we could just take in the views of the rugged west coast with its pristine little beaches, bays every colour of blue that you can imagine and huge rolling surf breaks 100m or so offshore.

By now it was time to catch the return ferry to Hillarys and the wind and swell had increased somewhat. All I need say is that some people would pay good money at a theme park in order to experiment the roller coaster ride back to the mainland, and before you ask, no, I wasn't seasick.

Before driving the short distance back home we sat by the fire at the Breakwater bar for a couple of beers and nibbles so that some of us could dry off after being soaked on the ferry, and others could replace the contents of their stomachs. TMI maybe?!